Gisborne
To get to Gisborne you can either take SH35 which will take you on a tour of Eastland or through the Raumumara Range on the SH2. Gisborne is the easternmost city in New Zealand. Its great claim to fame is being the first city in the world to see the sun rise. I think the great character of the city is not brought about by the plentiful bridges and lovely parks but by the sound of Maori being spoken in the streets. In Gisborne the Maori culture is live and well. You're likely to see full mokos or facial tatoos and ineed there seemed to be more Maori here than Pakeha. The city itself lies just on the coastline at the meeting place of the Waimata and Taruheru rivers.
History
The first settlers in Gisborne arrived in the first millenium aboard two canoes which had set sail from Hawaiki. An intermarriage pact was agreed upon by the leaders of the canoes and so Turanganui a Kiwa or Gisborne was born. The newly arrived Maori found excellent conditions in which to grow the kumara or sweet potato and as the people prospered they moved further inland.
European settlement by the Pakeha took its time. They were put off by the inherent dangers involved as when the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840, the chiefs of the East coast would not recognise it nor put their names on it. The first european was a Mr John Williams Harris who bravely set up the first whaling station in the area. More whalers followed and they in turn were pursued by the missionaries. Father Baty and Rev William Colenso were the first to come and such was the importance of their endeavour that they tramped through the Te Urewera in competition for the saving of souls. The introduction of Christianity to the Maori was a complicated business. Firstly the Catholics and the Protestants were in competition with each other. The fervent new beliefs of the converted turned to hatred when land disputes arose as the Maori believed the missionaries themselves were as hungry for land as the rest of the settlers. The Hau Hau movement was born in 1862 in reaction to the land losses and betrayal from the Crown. They based their beliefs largely on the Old Testament and were marked out by their dancing around nui poles while calling for the new settlers to leave their country. So strongly did they believe in their cause and religion that they threw themselves upon their enemies shouting their distinctive hauhau battle cry using only raised right arm to protect themselves as they believed that their religion and faith was enough to protect them. The government was too strong for the uprising and by 1866 the opposition was brought to a close with the capture of their leader Te Ua Haumene and other surviving rebels like Te Kooti who were then transported to the Chatham Islands. The story does not end there. Te Kooti was a legendary figure in his own right. A prophecy had foretold that should he live longer than his elder brother dark times would fall upon the land and its people. Te Kooti's brother died of an illness at an early age and by the mid 19th century war was the order of the day. Te Kooti was not content to wait upon a pardon and led an escape from the island aboard the captured Rifleman supply ship with some 200 other prisoners. In 1868 he led his army to wreck revenge at Matawhero and so 33 Europeans and 37 Maori came their ends. Te Kooti was both feared and supported. What with the prophecy at his birth and his vision of the island and a reputation for healing and prophecy, Te Kooti established the Ringatu Church.
Things to see and do
Gisborne is littered with monuments which all pay tribute to Cook and his landing in the area. 10km south of Gisborne is Young Nick's Head. Cook was a man of his word and called the promonotory after Nick Young, a 12 year-old surgeon's boy who was the first aboard the Endeavour to spot New Zealand. He was also awarded a gallon of rum as his prize. On the western side of the river you'll see a statue of Young Nick while on the Eastern side at the foot of Kaiti hill, Cook's landing (8th October 1769) site is marked by an obelisk. Close by, you'll see Banks' Garden which was named after Banks the botanist who painstakingly collected native species such as the puriri, karo, tutu and ngaio in Gisborne, Tolago Bay and Anaura Bay as they proceeded on their journey northwards.
At the base of Kaiti Hill or Titirangi is the Te Poho-o-Rawiri Marae or meeting house. This is a marae definitely worth visiting. It is one of the largest in New Zealand and the ancestral carvings are incredible. The inside is intricately carved with a stage encase in maihi or carved gable boards while the walls are covered in tukutuku or woven panels amidst the carved ancestral motifs. Ask for permission before entering (Tel: 06 868 5364 or ask at the Gisborne Information Centre) and don't forget to take off your shoes. Donations or a koha are very welcome. The Toko Toru Tapu Church is next to the marae but it is rarely open for visiting. Head up Kaiti Hill on the walking track near Waikahua Cottage close to the Cook obelisk, you'll come to the Titirangi Domain where you'll see a self-satisfied Captain Cook looking towards the hinterland. There's also the James Cook Observatory 'The World's Easternmost' here where you can do a little stargazing.
Gisborne Museum & Arts Centre
The exhibits start outside the museum. There's the Sled House which was built for easy transportation during the HauHau era. It lies on runners so that it could have been pulled to safety by a team of bullocks. You'll also see Wylie Cottage, built in 1872 with 6 rooms, it is the oldest building in town and Lynsar House (a private artists' studio). The museums displays relate to the Maori Iwi which hail from the East Coast and colonial history which was born here. The art gallery incorporates changing exhibits of contemporary art as well as national and international exhibits. Also included in the entry fee is the Star of Canada Maritime Museum by the river. The Star of Canada which weighed 12,000 tonnes was grounded on the reef. Most of the ship was destroyed but the captain's cabin and the bridge were salvaged. The bridge was reconverted into a house and then bequeathed to the city. The captain's cabin has been fully restored and you'll also be able to see photos taken of the shipwreck. Other exhibits include displays on Cook and his voyages, Maori canoes and early shipping and whaling.
Head northwest for 5km out of Gisborne on the SH2 and you'll find the Museum on the Main Road, Makaraka. The reconverted dairy factory is a work in progress with bits and pieces which seemed to have been collected from everywhere. You'll see ancient photocopiers, various coke cans, old agricultural machinery and petrol pumps. Something for everyone, particularly if you have time to kill. Just another 2km down the road is the Matawhero Presbyterian Church, a little wooden building which was the only survivor of Te Kooti rampages.
Eastwoodhill Arboretum
35km northwest of Gisborne on the Ngatapa-Rere Road. William Douglas Cook began planting this private garden in 1910. Today the arboretum boasts the largest collection of northern hemisphere trees and shrubs in the country. You'll find oaks, maple and cherry trees to name but a few of the 3,500 species to be found
Wineries
Gisborne is the selfprofessed Chardonnay Capital of New Zealand. The region is competing with Hawke's Bay and Marlborough in an attempt to break into the international market. There are plenty of little wineries which you can visit. For more information check out the Gisborne Information Centre. Matawhero, on Riverpoint Road is the oldest winery in the district. 8km west of Gisborne, Matawhero is known for its Gerwurztraminer (Tel: 06 868 8366). The Milton Winery on Papatu Road, Manutuke is 15km West of Gisborne. Milton's is an organic, award-winning winery which applies Rudolf Steiner's bio-dynamic principles to its production. You might as well grab a bottle and enjoy a picnic lunch in their garden. If you prefer reds try the Shalimar Estate Winery, Ngatapa Road, Patutahi, 15km out of Gisborne. You can sample some of tehir award winning Merlots and Pinot Gris.
Beaches
Midway Beach on the Centennial Marine Drive is a short stroll from the city centre and a popular local bathing spot. Waikanae Beach is also close to the city but you'll find that most of the coastline provides good swimming, surfing or fishing.
Other Activities
There are plenty of tours and activities available in the area. You can go wh. itewater rafting on the Motu or Waioeka River, take a horsetrek, go hunting or fishing and if you're just a little crazy you might want get in a cage and descend into the depths of the mako sharks. You'll get all the info you need at the Visitors Information Centre.
Walking
Gisborne is hardly the destination of any dedicated tramper. However the Te Kuri Farm Walkway is a popular short walk which takes about 2 - 3hrs over 5kms. You'll pass through a pastoral setting with a wee bit of forest and you'll eventually get a good panoramic view of the city. The scene is one well-known to Kiwis as the landscape was immortalised with the immensely popular cartoon 'Footrot Flats' which featured the Dog, Te Kuri which used to feature in the local newspaper. Infact the land itself is owned by the now retired Murray Ball.